Kiangoi

The small region in Kirinyaga that the Kiangoi mill serves, surrounding the village of Ngariama, is mainly a tea-growing area, so most of the coffee plant stock is rather new. The region is known for very high quality of both tea and coffee; being planted somewhat later than neighbouring regions means soils haven’t been tired out by years of conventional agriculture, with its sprays and chemical fertiliser. We have visited the region several times, most recently in February of this year. Here, it is clear to witness the density of both coffee and tea plantation in the lush green landscape, enabled by the rich volcanic soils, relatively undisturbed by intensive conventional agriculture. North Eastern Kirinyaga is home to some of our favourite Kenyan coffees; Kiangoi is run by the Rungeto Farmer’s Cooperative Society, who also own the Kii and Karimikui stations, where we have purchased several lots in the past.

We visited the Rungeto team on our trip this year, meeting the board and touring each of the stations. After our visit, and after many cuppings back in Nairobi, we have continued our focus with Rungeto this year, sharing several lots from their stations across the season. Also near to Ngariama are the Thirikwa cooperative, who own Gakuyuini, and the New Ngariama cooperative, who own Kamwangi, Kainamui and Kiamugumo, also names very familiar to us at La Cabra.

This tiny area continues to impress with its quality, much of the area was planted with coffee just before the rise of hybrid varietals in Kenya, meaning that 99% of the farmers that deliver to Kiangoi grow SL28 and SL34, with only about 1% using rust-resistant varietals like Ruiru 11 or Batian.

This lot from Kiangoi is tasting crisp and fresh, with crisp redcurrants emanating from the cup, alongside a fresh and floral hibiscus character.

The Kiangoi, sourced from the Kirinyaga region of Kenya, represents the meticulous processing standards of the Rungeto Farmer’s Cooperative Society. This lot features a classic combination of SL28 and SL34 varietals, which are widely celebrated for their ability to express the distinct, vibrant acidity often associated with high-quality East African coffees. Roasted by Dayglow, the profile highlights crisp redcurrants and fresh, floral hibiscus.

When evaluating such profiles, it is helpful to reference the flavor wheel to better categorize the interplay between bright fruit acidity and delicate floral aromatics. While Kenyan coffees are frequently noted for their intense, wine-like complexity, the specific character of any given harvest is deeply influenced by the unique microclimate of the Kirinyaga slopes. This offering provides a focused look at how traditional varietals, when handled with precision by a cooperative, translate into a clean and expressive cup.