Trapiche Geisha

Hacienda La Esmeralda is the epicenter of the rediscovery of the Geisha variety and the subsequent fascination the Specialty Coffee industry has had with the variety.  In 2004, the Peterson family decided to separate lots based on their location on the farm, and kept them separated throughout processing.  By doing so, the Peterson's were able to isolate the cup profile of the Geisha variety, experiencing the juicy acidity and multi-layered aromatics that Geisha has to offer.  While common practice today, this decision to separate lots was progressive and experimental at the time.

The Buenos Aires microlot is grown at one of the highest elevations at Hacienda La Esmeralda's Jaramillo farm. With cool temperatures, high humidity, and massive shade trees that have been standing for ages, Jaramillo is the perfect location for making the aromatics of the gesha variety sing. The farm jumps up from rolling hills on its lower part to steep 40-degree inclines higher up, making harvesting a manual and challenging affair.

There had been coffee planted on the lower parts of the farm—as many as 15 different sub-varieties of hybrids from Costa Rica and Brazil—and in 1997 the Peterson family decided to plant higher up.

Harvesting

Due to the high premium these coffees garner during auction, Hacienda La Esmeralda is able to pay its harvesters three times the typical wage, ensuring a good standard of living as well as the highest quality work.

By carefully dividing each lot as it is picked, specific clusters of trees are targeted during the harvest, building unique microlots for the most quality-conscious buyers.

Natural Process

During the natural process, harvested coffee goes directly to the patio to dry. The fruit of the cherry slowly dries out with the coffee bean itself still inside, infusing the bean with fruit and aromatic notes that carry through all the way to the cup.

Depending on the weather and the composition of the lot, the coffee will dry for 3 to 5 days on the concrete patio (8 hours per day).

Drying + Milling

After it has dried sufficiently, the lot is rotated into a Guardiola dryer for 72 hours to round out the drying process and prevent unwanted fermentation. Once drying is complete, the coffee beans are mechanically separated from the remaining fruit material.

After the coffee is removed from the patio, it is stored in nylon grain bags to rest between 30 and 45 days. This “reposo” period helps to stabilize the enzymes in the bean.

A week prior to shipment, the coffee is hulled to remove the parchment layer, then sorted by size, density, and color to create consistent nanolots. Finally, coffee is vacuum sealed in GrainPro bags and shipped to the winning bidder.

La Esmeralda's industry-leading environmental sustainability practices and support for employees and their families have made us proud to partner with the Peterson family for many years.

The Trapiche Geisha, sourced from the Jaramillo region of Panama, represents a collaboration between the renowned Hacienda La Esmeralda and Bird Rock Coffee Roasters. This lot features the Geisha varietal, a plant celebrated globally for its distinct, tea-like clarity and complex aromatic profile. By utilizing a natural processing method, the producers allow the coffee cherry to dry intact around the bean, a technique often associated with increased sweetness and body in the final cup.

When evaluating a coffee of this caliber, enthusiasts often consult a flavor wheel to help identify the nuanced characteristics inherent in such high-quality harvests. Because natural-processed coffees can exhibit a wide spectrum of fruit-forward notes, understanding the interplay between the specific varietal and the drying process is essential for appreciating the unique profile of this Panamanian offering.