Mamuto AB, Kenya

George Howell Coffee has been buying Mamuto since 2006. It has never faltered. The late Walter Mathagu always produced coffees that were perfectly ripe and sweet. They ranged from excellent to exquisite as weather patterns challenged but never overcame him. His son, Patrick Mathagu, is now runs this great farm. 

Mamuto grows beneath the slopes of the usually overcast seventeen thousand-plus foot Mt. Kenya, looming above to the north. The soil is deep red-orange in a lush green very gently undulating landscape. All the coffee is processed at the farm right through drying. After drying, the coffee remains in parchment approximately six weeks resting in aerated bins before being transported for final milling and packaging. Besides coffee the Mathagus maintain a herd of dairy cattle and grow bananas, maize, beans and macadamia on their 21 acre farm.

Walter Paul Mathagu was an agricultural officer serving the government of Kenya for seventeen years before retiring in 1987. During that entire time Mrs. Mathagu managed the farm. Taking inspiration from their family, Mr. Mathagu explained that “Mamuto” means “father, mother, and children.” He and his wife named the farm by combining the first two letters from three words: his name, Mathagu, as the father; Muthoni, his wife’s maiden name, as mother; and toto, meaning child or children in Swahili: thus Mamuto. Mr. and Mrs. Mathagu have six children - three boys, three girls. We continue to buy Mamuto’s entire crop.

Mamuto AB is one grade below AA but doesn’t falter on flavor. AB leans more into body while AA often has more florality. And, while there is less uniformity in bean size, notes of juicy plum and sweet blackberry still resonate throughout the cup. AB Light is a great alternative to AA!

The Mamuto AB, sourced from producer Patrick Mathagu, represents the distinct profile of Kenya. Known for their vibrant acidity and complex profiles, coffees from this region are often sought after for their bright, fruit-forward characteristics. When evaluating such lots, roasters like George Howell Coffee focus on highlighting the inherent clarity and sweetness of the bean. In this specific offering, the cup presents notes of juicy plum and sweet blackberry.

To better understand how these specific descriptors fit into the broader spectrum of coffee tasting, it is helpful to reference the flavor wheel. While every harvest is unique, Kenyan coffees are frequently celebrated for their intense, wine-like qualities and structured mouthfeel. By focusing on the meticulous work of producers like Mathagu, roasters aim to preserve the integrity of the origin, ensuring that the final brew reflects the specific terroir and processing methods characteristic of the region.